“Don't listen to what they say, go see.” ~ Chinese Proverb
June 15-26, 2018
World View China Study Visit
June 15-26, 2018
World View China Study Visit
Beijing: First Stop 798 Art District
It seems only fitting that our trip from NC travels first to NJ for our flight to Beijing...all things for me started in NJ. A 14 hour flight later, we landed at Beijing Nanyuan Airport and headed over to our hotel and a short evening of sight seeing before an early bed.
The 798 Art District (Dashanzi Art District) is comprised of decommissioned military buildings built as an extension of the Socialist Unification Plan in the 1950s as a joint project with the former Soviet Union. After the site closed as a manufacturing plant, Beijing's Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA) moved into the ample workspace in Factory 706. Now an area of galleries, lofts, clubs, and cafes, the collection of artists studios is the third most visited destination in Beijing: a sort of Chinese Soho or Greenwich Village. Walking through the space allowed us to exorcise some of our jet lag demons and prepare for our Beijing adventure.
The 798 Art District (Dashanzi Art District) is comprised of decommissioned military buildings built as an extension of the Socialist Unification Plan in the 1950s as a joint project with the former Soviet Union. After the site closed as a manufacturing plant, Beijing's Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA) moved into the ample workspace in Factory 706. Now an area of galleries, lofts, clubs, and cafes, the collection of artists studios is the third most visited destination in Beijing: a sort of Chinese Soho or Greenwich Village. Walking through the space allowed us to exorcise some of our jet lag demons and prepare for our Beijing adventure.
Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City
We start our first full day in Tian'an Men Guangchang--the Square of the Gate of Heavenly Peace--the heart of modern Beijing. We pass the Zhengyang Men building (Arrow Tower which houses a museum on the history of Beijing) on the way into the open concrete expanse we know as The Square. Mao's Mausoleum is flanked by revolutionary statues, there is a Monument to the People's Heroes (the column), and the China National Museum hosts exhibitions from around the world. Mao proclaimed the founding of the People's Republic of China on October 1, 1949, from the Ming dynasty gate where his huge portrait still remains. Tiananmen Square is also home to the Great Hall of the People, the seat of the Chinese legislature.
Forming the very heart of Beijing, the Forbidden City (officially the Gugong or Palace Museum) is China's most magnificent architectural complex. Completed in 1420, the Palace housed the subsequent 24 emperors for nearly 500 years. The harmonious principle of yin and yang is the key to its design: the Palace has 9,999 rooms to reflect the auspicious male yang embodied by the emperor (even numbers are female reflected in some architectural elements). The roof guardians pictured are all associated with water to protect the buildings from fire. Our great guardian, and supreme leader CHAIRMAN LEE, is presented here to balance, CHAIRMAN MAO.
The Temple of Heaven
Completed during the Ming Dynasty, the Temple of Heaven (Tian Tan) is one of the largest temple complexes in China and a paradigm of Chinese architectural balance and symbolism. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this is where the Emperor would pray to heaven and his ancestors at the winter solstice. As the Son of Heaven, the Emperor could intercede with the gods, represented by their spirit tablets, on behalf of the people. The largest building is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests (Qinian Dian).
The Great Wall of China
The visit to the Mutianyu Section of the Wall on our second full day was indeed a memorable way to spend my birthday. This section of the Wall is 70 km away from downtown Beijing and said to be less touristy the the Badaling section. This section was constructed in the mid-6th century (Northern Qi Dynasty) and rebuilt in its current form during the Ming Dynasty in 1569. This Mutianyu section is over a mile long and contains 23 watchtowers, making it one of the longest fully restored portions of the Wall. The watchtowers allowed for speedy communications via smoke flares and drums, as well as allowing for speedy transportation of troops across the country. I was not so speedy in my ascent!
We spent our evening visiting Beijing's Bell Tower in the Hutong area for an introduction to a Chinese Tea ceremony and a dinner/cooking lesson from a wonderful Beijing family in their home. They surprised me with a round of Happy Birthday and a cake to celebrate the occasion.
We spent our evening visiting Beijing's Bell Tower in the Hutong area for an introduction to a Chinese Tea ceremony and a dinner/cooking lesson from a wonderful Beijing family in their home. They surprised me with a round of Happy Birthday and a cake to celebrate the occasion.
You get to the top of the Great Wall by ski lift or cablecar--you return to the bottom by TOBOGGAN! Enjoy the ride!
The Summer Palace
The sprawling grounds of the Summer Palace served the Qing Dynasty as an imperial retreat from the Forbidden City. The featured picture is of the Long Corridor, a 2,388 foot long walkway decorated with over 14,000 scenic pictures. The Palace is most associated with Cixi, who had the Palace rebuilt after its destruction by French and English troops in 1860 , and after being plundered during the Boxer Rebellion in 1902. His biggest expenditure was for a 'marble boat' with funds meant to modernize the Imperial Navy. Time to enjoy a ride on a Dragon Boat! Wait, where's Michael?
Making Silk!
A visit to the land of the Silk Road would be incomplete without a visit to it's namesake product: SILK! At the Yuanlong Silk Factory we met some busy silkworms, watched cocoons being unwound, and learned some of the secrets of textile production. Next we are off to Xi'an!
Xi'an: The Terra Cotta Warriors
Xi'an has served as capital to 11 dynasties over a period of 4,000 years. Serving as the terminus to the Silk Road during the Tang Dynasty, Xi'an is today best known as the home of the Terra Cotta Warriors. Discovered in 1974 by farmers digging a well, the burial complex of the first Qin Emperor Shi Huangdi was the archaeological find of the 20th century. Each warrior, originally colored with pigment and holding a weapon, has an individually crafted expression. Pit 1 contains the infantry (pictured); Pit 2 the cavalry and soldiers; and Pit 3 contains a command center filled with high ranking officers. The burial mound of the Emperor himself is yet to be excavated. There is split opinion regarding the political legacy of Qin Shi Huangdi: legalism vs. rights/academic freedom, standardization vs. creativity, but there is no debate over the amazing feeling that engulfs one upon entering the presence of the warriors. The featured shot of an individual warrior is perhaps my favorite shot of the trip: the officer is enclosed in a glass case and I was able to capture the reverse of his face in the glass reflection.
Muslim Quarters and the Great Mosque
As the name implies, the Muslim Quarter is the hub of the Muslim community in Xi'an. Exotic foods and souvenirs are available on every corner. The Great Mosque (Da Qingzhen Is) was built during the Tang Dynasty (742) when Islam was still a young religion and the fountains contribute to the sense of tranquility here in the middle of the otherwise hectic quarter.
Tang Dynasty Show
Over the course of our trip we would view many examples of the traditional Chinese arts: celadon pottery, bronze work, jade work, and calligraphy. On our first full day in Xi'an we would end the day with a visit to the famous Tang Dynasty Show featuring traditional dance and acrobatics. The featured story was of a young concubine who rises to power by capturing the attention of the Emperor.
Big Wild Goose Pagoda and the Qinglong Temple
A highlight of our trip was the visit to the Qinglong Temple arranged by our amazing Xi'an guide Peter. Peter was able to bring unique insights to our visit to Xi'an from his days as an actual historian working the Terra Cotta Warriors site and as a local professor and resident. We were honored to be the first westerners to ever enter the Buddhist temple and we enjoyed meeting the monks in one to one and group conversation.
An archetypal element of Chinese architecture, the nearby Big Wild Goose Pagoda was built in memory of Empress Wende by her son (652AD). The monk Xuanzang travelled to Central Asia to obtain bundles of sutras (which he translated) and they are still housed today in the complex.
An archetypal element of Chinese architecture, the nearby Big Wild Goose Pagoda was built in memory of Empress Wende by her son (652AD). The monk Xuanzang travelled to Central Asia to obtain bundles of sutras (which he translated) and they are still housed today in the complex.
Guilin
The third stage of our trip involved a flight to the southwest region of China, to the city of Guilin. Guilin is known for its karst peaks-weathered limestone formations featured on the 20 Yuan bill. Guilin dates back to the Qin era and its beauty was inspiring poets as early as the 6th century CE. The karst formations are particularly concentrated along the River Li-the site of our pictured cruise! We were even able to snap pictures at the exact site of the 20 yuan note. A favorite moment was meeting one of the traditional Li River fisherman and his cormorant fishing partner. The cormorants are trained to dive into the river among the school of fish that live in the clear water. After catching a fish the birds return to the boat where the fisherman removes the fish from the bird. The bird is prevented from swallowing the fish by a ring that is placed around the neck of the bird. The bird is rewarded for its work by its owner after every 6th fish caught.
After a visit to the Village of Yangshuo, we paused roadside to walk along a green paddy field and then proceeded to the entrance of the Reed Flute Cave. The Cave features colorfully illuminated formations. The Cave was used by the inhabitants of Guilin during the Japanese invasion during the 1940s. Unbeknownst to my fellow travelers, I have been terrified of Caves since a cave visiting episode in my childhood. Luckily, this tour did not turn off the lights or lose power, so my claustrophobia was kept at bay. It was beautiful, but I still can't say I like caves.
After a visit to the Village of Yangshuo, we paused roadside to walk along a green paddy field and then proceeded to the entrance of the Reed Flute Cave. The Cave features colorfully illuminated formations. The Cave was used by the inhabitants of Guilin during the Japanese invasion during the 1940s. Unbeknownst to my fellow travelers, I have been terrified of Caves since a cave visiting episode in my childhood. Luckily, this tour did not turn off the lights or lose power, so my claustrophobia was kept at bay. It was beautiful, but I still can't say I like caves.
Shanghai
Our final city stop was Shanghai. Shanghai became a commercial outpost for the European powers after the Treaty of Nanking. It soon became a city of glamour, free trade, and decadence. The city was divided into 'concessions', or zones, where the European Imperialists created bubbles of influence. The Bund, or shore along the Huangpu, is still lined with concession-era buildings. The evening skyline is magnificent and we dined the first evening in the former French Concession after intense shopping on the Nanjing Road. The French Concession was also the site of the First National Congress of the Communist Party. In the featured picture, at the site where on July 23, 1921, 12 participants, including, Mao Zedong, met to form a National Party (the police discovered the the meeting and the delegates were forced to escape to a boat on Nan Lake). Our tour leader, Lee, always growing stronger, made me an honorary American-Chinese member of the Party to match my Soviet honorary membership from my college debate days.
Our visit to Shanghai also included a visit to the Shanghai Museum of Ancient Chinese Art which features some of the best cultural relics from China's Neolithic Period to the Qing Dynasty- a span of over 5,000 years. Our trip included a guided visit to the Jade Buddha Temple. Built in the Southern Song Dynasty style, it has sharply curved eaves and figurines on the roof. The halls are decorated by pictures of Heavenly Kings and many golden Buddhas carrying prayers to the greater universe.
Our visit to Shanghai also included a visit to the Shanghai Museum of Ancient Chinese Art which features some of the best cultural relics from China's Neolithic Period to the Qing Dynasty- a span of over 5,000 years. Our trip included a guided visit to the Jade Buddha Temple. Built in the Southern Song Dynasty style, it has sharply curved eaves and figurines on the roof. The halls are decorated by pictures of Heavenly Kings and many golden Buddhas carrying prayers to the greater universe.
Shanghai Acrobatic Troupe
Acrobats Part II!
Education in China
What is harder to express than anything else is the intangible feelings one experiences when traveling. Strangers become friends and previously unknown fellow travelers become companions. On this trip I was lucky to have the support of my students and their families through IB PAC. My walking the Silk Road has become the basis for an interactive activity for the entire 9th grade student body at Myers Park High School (coyneworldhistory.weebly.com for the activity under the Silk Road tab) and the basis for my application for the NC World Educator Badge. We were able to visit 9 schools with students ranging from pre-K through college and quickly discovered that the trials and joys are universal in education. Thank you for sharing your experiences students and staff at the below listed schools and thank you fellow World View Travelers for becoming my companions.
Beijing Jun Yi Private High School: Beijing
Xiahe Village Rural Primary School: Xi'an
Xi'an University: Xi'an
Xi'an Foreign Language University Public High School: Xi'an
Guilin No. 2 Vocational School: Guilin
Chaoyang Kindergarten: Shanghai
Shanghai Minhang District Min Ban Wen Bo Primary School Migrant School: Shanghai
Beijing Jun Yi Private High School: Beijing
Xiahe Village Rural Primary School: Xi'an
Xi'an University: Xi'an
Xi'an Foreign Language University Public High School: Xi'an
Guilin No. 2 Vocational School: Guilin
Chaoyang Kindergarten: Shanghai
Shanghai Minhang District Min Ban Wen Bo Primary School Migrant School: Shanghai
Squatty Potty Adventures
When we were initially informed that we needed to pack our own toilet paper for the trip, and that we should practice our 'squats', many of us were confused and a tad alarmed. A few pictures from our potty adventures: standing, squatting, sitting, seats and trenches. I brought inspirational tissue and followed the star ratings.